The Ultima Thule

Journeys in America’s Northernmost Lands: a web anthology of the Alaskan Arctic

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

June 27th, 2009

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

| June 27, 2009

Our first leg of the Ultima Thule is two weeks hiking in the north-east Arctic, beginning in the foothills of the Romanzov Mountains along the Aichilik River and hiking south to the Upper Sheenjek River, designated in 1980 as a Wild River. We hope we might see some of the caribou migration, though it’s always [...]

(Avoiding) The unofficial Alaska State Bird

| June 26, 2009

So on the mosquito front- in the Arctic three years ago I didn’t even think about anything other than DEET. The airforce in the Yukon Territory- at least down south here- is only the observation lookout post for the hordes to come. Mosquitoes in the arctic are so bad they can reportedly kill a baby [...]

Gear for the Ultima Thule

| June 24, 2009

We have modified this list a bit to make it specific to the Arctic shotgun with shot and slugs bear fence Ursack or other bear-proof container bear spray mosquito head nets SAT phone
(Iridium 9555) maps overview map of area compass GPS and extra batteries sunglasses sun screen first-aid kit knife matches water bottles iodine/filter nuun [...]

From Haines to Denali

| June 23, 2009

Enroute to Alaska last weekend, we left the small sliver of the state near Haines for Canada after a late arrival by ferry, crossing into British Columbia and then into the Yukon Territory. We drove for three hours to Haines Junction, where the road from Skagway and Canada meets the road from Haines. Growing up [...]

Cruising north from Ketchikan, Alaska to Haines via Juneau

| June 15, 2009

We left Ketchikan after a couple mile run- I’m not sure if Teton or I enjoyed it more, and lunch with Peter at the New York Café. I had the recommended curry carrot soup and a salad, which leapt with flavor especially in contrast to our ferry food; Peter’s roast beef and grilled cheese sandwich- [...]

North up the Inside Passage to Alaska

| June 14, 2009

MV Columbia left Bellingham eight hours late at 2 AM Saturday morning. We squirmed around in our tent, pitched on the upper deck at the stern and surrounded by ten or fifteen other tents. Despite the quiet and clear night sky, Ursa Major and the north star leading us forward above the Alaskan flag mirroring [...]